Tired of curls that frizz by lunchtime? The short answer on how to style curly hair: moisturize, detangle wet with a wide-toothed comb, apply product while damp, then keep your hands off as it dries.
Once your curls are behaving, browse more hairstyle ideas for what to do with them next.
| Item | Value |
|---|---|
| Hair-typing system | Type 1, 2, 3, or 4, with subtypes A-C |
| Shampoo frequency | Every few days or less, depending on texture |
| Drying cloth | Microfiber towel or soft cotton t-shirt |
| Detangling tool | Wide-toothed comb on wet hair |
| Finger coiling set time | 15-20 minutes |
| Bantu knot-out set time | Overnight |
These figures come from a hair care brand’s guide to defining curls. Advice like this can change, so check the source before you rely on it.
Why curly hair frizzes and dries out so easily
Frizz starts at the cuticle, the outer layer of each strand. WebMD’s frizz guide, medically reviewed in October 2012, compares the cuticle to a shingled roof: when hair is smooth the shingles lie flat, and brushing dry curly hair lifts them.
Curly hair also runs dry. The natural oils from your scalp have a harder time traveling down the hair shaft past all the bends, according to the John Frieda guide. Dry strands are the main reason curls look puffy instead of defined.
It helps to know your curl type. The same guide describes the Andre Walker system, which groups hair into Type 1, 2, 3, or 4 with subtypes A-C, and Type 1A is perfectly straight hair with no waves, curls, or kinks. Higher numbers mean more waves, curls and coils, and each pattern may want slightly different products.
Wash, dry and detangle before you style
Definition is mostly decided before you touch a styling product. Work through this order every wash day:
- Shampoo less. The John Frieda guide suggests shampooing only every few days or less, depending on your texture, with a moisturizing shampoo and plenty of conditioner.
- Detangle while wet. Work from the ends up to the roots with a wide-toothed comb and plenty of leave-in conditioner, or do it in the shower after conditioning.
- Squeeze, don’t rub. Press out excess water with a microfiber towel or a soft cotton t-shirt, because standard cotton towels can raise the cuticle.
- Dry gently. Air-dry when you can, or use a diffuser to spread the heat and cut down on frizz-causing friction.
Your conditioner matters too. WebMD’s guide notes that a protein-infused conditioner can manage frizz and add shine, and that alcohol-free products avoid the drying effect that sets you up for frizz.
The same WebMD feature also recommends natural oils over synthetic silicones, since stylists quoted there say natural oils are absorbed into the hair while silicones sit on top of it.
Apply product and shape your curls
Timing is the secret. Start defining your curls while the hair is still wet or damp, using a gel, mousse or cream made for curly hair so the strands clump into spirals, coils or waves.
Rake the product through gently, coat each strand, and then scrunch upward to encourage the curls to form. If you blow-dry, use a diffuser rather than a bare nozzle.
Then comes the hardest part: leave it alone. Running your fingers through dry curls can break up the product and your curl pattern, which brings the frizz back.
WebMD’s feature also advises limiting heat. One author it quotes suggests skipping flat irons and curling irons and keeping heat to a blow dryer with a diffuser.
Three ways to set defined curls at home
If a simple scrunch is not giving you the shape you want, the John Frieda guide lists three methods. Each starts from moisturized hair.
Finger coiling
Apply a curl cream or deep conditioner, then twist small sections around your finger and lay them back down. Let your hair sit for 15-20 minutes. If you used a deep conditioner, rinse it out and gently pull the twists apart.
Bantu knot-out
Start with damp hair and work a styling gel through small sections. Twist each section and coil it around itself at the base, then secure it with pins or elastics. Let the knots dry and set overnight, then remove the pins and untuck the ends.
Heat styling
This method works best on day-old hair. Use hair spray if you need more grip, apply a heat protectant, and create the curls evenly with your tool. Keep it occasional, since the same sources steer curly hair away from regular high heat.
Keep curls fresh overnight and through the day
Night-time friction undoes a lot of good work. The John Frieda guide recommends “pineappling”: gather your curls in a loose bun on top of your head, secure it with a soft scrunchy, and sleep on a silk pillowcase to cut down on frizz-inducing friction.
For midday frizz, resist brushing. WebMD’s guide suggests wetting your hands and finger-combing to tame tangles, or smoothing in a small amount of children’s detangling spray.
- Press a little straight styling cream over stubborn flyaways instead of re-styling the whole head.
- Skip brushes on dry hair, since stylists quoted by WebMD say to avoid brushing hair after it dries.
- Refresh at the end of the day with water rather than more heat.
If you are thinking about a cut that suits your curls, these short haircuts for round faces are a useful place to compare shapes. When you want curls off your neck, see updos for medium length hair for ideas that work with texture.
Frequently asked questions
Can I brush curly hair?
Show answer
Not when it is dry. Both guides say to avoid brushing dry curls because it lifts the cuticle and can disturb your curl pattern; use a wide-toothed comb on wet, conditioned hair instead.
How often should I shampoo curly hair?
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The John Frieda guide suggests shampooing only every few days or less, depending on your hair’s texture. Shampooing less helps curly hair hold on to moisture.
What do I do if frizz forms after my hair dries?
Show answer
Leave the curls alone as much as possible, because touching dry hair is a common cause. If frizz appears anyway, smooth it with a little styling cream, or wet your hands and finger-comb as WebMD suggests.
Where can I find dermatologist advice on curly hair?
Show answer
The American Academy of Dermatology publishes a page called 6 curly hair care tips from dermatologists, written for curly or coily hair. Read it directly for the full list, and see a dermatologist if you have scalp or hair-loss concerns.
